Lifestyle blocks have revived interest but most purchase the commercial egg layers such as the Red Shavers and Ross Browns. Even more recently there has been an upsurge of interest in the historical fowl and efforts are being made to promote these old breeds.
CHOOSING YOUR CHOOK
Happy hens lay healthy eggs!
My initial health assessment is of plumage and comb — a lustrous full feathering and a well coloured comb, bright eye, clean legs, hen with attitude — they get my vote! Make allowances of course if it is moulting season or the hen has just finished raising chickens.
The cockerel MUST have a good temperament. If you cannot trust your rooster when you are attending the hens then don’t go there, he has the potential to land you in hospital with serious infective wounds. Having said that, you must be respectful of his perception of his manly duties — mutual respect is good insurance. Rule of thumb: One cock to eight hens.
I find many new owners have purchased chookies that have sparse and rough feathering, areas denuded of feathers altogether, red, even raw patches around the breast and vent. They are told it is a moulting process. Tell the seller to get lost. It is most likely mites or very bad nutrition. It can be remedied (see our homeopathic remedies below), but your egg laying hen and fertile rooster will be under serious stress whilst they are recuperating (at your expense, of course)!
What is more important — the colour of the egg or the size of the chookie?
Chooks generally are categorised in to ‘light’ breeds and ‘dual-purpose’ breeds.
The 'light' breeds tend to be flightier and seldom go clucky. These include the Shavers, Ross Browns, Leghorns, and the only really brown egg layer of the 'light' breeds — the Dutch Welsummer.
Dutch Welsummer Rooster with White Leghorn and
New Hampshire Red Hens.
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'Dual-purpose' breeds, that is, for eggs and table, include the Australorp (originally bred from the Black Orpington), the Orpington (good winter layer) and the American breeds, which generally have a yellow flesh — the Rhode Island Red, Plymouth Rock and Wyandotte.
The Barnevelder has a very dark brown egg and the Campine makes very rapid growth, reaching a good size for winter eating.
The Dr Zeus’s 'Green Eggs' chookie is the Araucana.
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BREEDS OF CHOOKS |
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Anacona — an egg layer, beetle-green feathers tipped with white, bright, alert — Italy. |
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Andalusian — lays large white eggs, slate blue or black & white — Spain. |
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Araucana — a pea comb, with crest and ear tufts, mostly lavender, lays blue eggs — South America. |
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Australorp — both meat & eggs, rich green-black colour, developed from Black Orpingtons in Australia. |
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Barnevelder — very dark brown egg, black double lacing on rich red-brown background — Holland. |
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Campine — produces both meat & eggs, unique feather barring, in gold and silver, spectacular — Belgium. |
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Dorking — a meat breed, long low body, short legs and five toes, colour varies — British. |
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Faverolle — meat breed, cloddy 5-toed, distinctive muffles on face — French |
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Frizzle — purely ornamental, covered in profusion of upward turning frizzled feathering. |
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Hamburgh — alert, active bird, gold and silver colouring — British. |
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Houdan — large crest, muffled face, glossy green-black — old French breed. |
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Indian Game — definitely a meat bird, massive — Cornwall. |
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Lanshan — brown eggs, feathered legs, mostly black, two breeds, both originally from Asia. |
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Leghorn — one of best egg producers, variety of colours. |
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Minorca — extra large white eggs, proud, stately Mediterranean ‘light’ breed. |
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New Hampshire Red — developed from Rhode Island Red for meat and early, large better-than-average egg production. |
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Orpington — due purposes, good winter egg producer, excellent eating, black, blue, buff colours, hardy, easy to keep, large — English. |
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Plymouth Rock — (usually called ‘Barred Rock), one of best dual-purpose birds — American. |
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Polish — an ornaments, unusual with spectacular head crest, little comb, active, very old breed. |
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Rhode Island Red — popular, utility bird, rich dark red colour, active, fine-looking fowl, developed in USA. |
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Silkie — persistent broodiness (good egg incubator) soft, fluffy feathering, blue skin, usually white, origins uncertain, called the ‘Chinese’ Silkie. |
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Sussex — moderate layer, mainly meat breed, pure white with black tail & neck hackles — old English breed. |
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Welsummer — deep brown eggs, brownish or ‘partridge’ colour, origins Dutch . |
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Wyandotte — various colours, white considered best all-rounder, gold and silver laced varieties. |
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Bantams
True Bantams have no counterparts in the large breeds. Most breeds described as ‘bantams’ today are, strictly speaking, ‘miniature fowls’, having being reduced in size from the larger varieties by systemic breeding. |
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Japanese — purely ornamental, striking bird. |
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Pekin — quiet, friendly, easily handled, true Bantam. |
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Game Fowl
Originally bred for cock fighting, strictly fanciers birds. Old English Game birds are the aristocrats of the fowl breeds. |
CARING FOR YOUR CHOOKS
HOUSING
Housing must be free from draughts yet well ventilated to prevent the build up of ammonia and spread of disease.
Allow approximately 1/3 square metre of floor space for each bird (20 bird flock would require 7 square metres).
The average hen requires approximately 250mm of perch space. Perches should be at a comfortable height (about 600mm will suffice), although breeds like the Australorp require low perches.
Allow access to a large forage area daily (if possible) and keep the hen-house floor free from a build-up of droppings.
Runs: If choosing to keep your birds in an outside run, clip one of their wings and fence with at least a 2 metre high enclosure. Total free range chookies tend to lay their eggs a distance from the hen house and one is totally oblivious of this until mother arrives back at the feed trough with a string of chickens in tow.
Floor Covering: Sand, pine sawdust in wet & cold seasons, use powdered lime to keep it sweet. Grow a crop of mustard in the runs and dig in. Sprinkle a little salt in at same time.
Nest Boxes: These need to be clean, tidy and fairly dark to ensure seclusion from the rest of the hen house. A rule of nesting space is 6 layers to 1 square metre of nesting space.
Replace the hay lining the nest boxes frequently and dust the boxes with an herbal parasite powder before renewing the nest material. I use pine shavings under the hay; this assists in parasite control and keeps the nest box clean. Dried tobacco leaves in nest of sitting hen clear vermin.
EGGS
Healthy organic free-range chookies lay eggs with a firm shell and golden yellow yolk. The golden yolk colour is better and tastier (ask anyone who has had a choice of pale yellow or solid gold)! The pigment is derived from plants and herbage, carrots or pumpkin. The digestibility of these eggs will be enhanced if your hens are allowed to run with a rooster. Remove eggs daily from nest box to prevent breakage or egg-eating developing.
Egg Eating: Any laying bird will eat broken eggs. This is a natural tendency and not a food deficiency. It can develop into a vice however, where the hen picks at the eggs to break them. This is a habit difficult to break.
Provide plenty of litter and ample nesting sites. Remove broken eggs promptly. Add decoy eggs such as plastic and hen will eventually tire of attempting to peck and break plastic eggs. If the hen persists then culling may be the only option.
Egg Quality: Well formed, clean, uncracked shells, free from blood spots. The egg shell must be entire as bacteria can enter and stains can penetrate even through an unbroken shell.
Shell Colour: There is no relationship between the colour of the egg and the quality of the egg, its flavour, or cookability. Generally, white hens lay white eggs, brown hens lay brown eggs.
Blood Stains on Shell: Occurs more frequently with young birds. Can occur in an older bird laying a double yolker (double yolkers occur when two ova are inadvertently released together, instead of 24 hours apart). The shell is stained when small blood vessels that line the oviduct rupture when an egg passes through, though subsequent eggs are generally free from any bloodstaining. Check for any injury around the vent area if blood staining persists.
Blood Spots: These occur inside an egg when a hen has been frightened or disturbed when the egg is being formed. Some breeds of laying birds have a genetic tendency to lay more eggs with blood spots than other breeds. A higher occurrence is seen in young hens just coming into lay.
Freshness: A guide to establishing an egg’s freshness — place the egg in a bowl of cold water; a fresh egg with sink to the bottom and lie on its side, an older egg with rise and float. This is due to the air space within the egg increasing as the egg ages. Older eggs deteriorate in quality, its flavour becomes bland and it wont beat up in to a stable foam when baking.
Refrigerate or Not? I keep my eggs on the kitchen dresser but many say eggs should be refrigerated (as much freshness is lost in three days at room temperature as in three weeks in the refrigerator). Refrigerated eggs are usually ok for 3-4 weeks.
Cleaning Eggs: Never wash eggs in water; they are porous and this will only push any dirt into the shell and contaminate the egg. Use a soft damp cloth or paper towel and wipe gently if absolutely necessary.
Egg Laying: At around 20 weeks a Pullet usually becomes a layer, depending on body weight and health. It takes a hen 24-26 hours to produce an egg. Most eggs are laid in the morning. Eggs may be laid daily or every second day. Spring is the natural time for egg production although free-range hens will produce eggs for over 9 months of the year. Hens respond to shorter day lengths in winter by a drop of around 30% of egg production. Annual production level is around 65% (237 eggs per bird per year) on average.
Broodiness: This is a natural maternal instinct that can cause a decrease in egg production. Broody hens do not lay eggs but occupy the nest for extended periods of time, preventing other hens from laying. Even during the night broody hens tend to remain on the nest.
Other signs of broodiness include the ruffling of feathers, aggressiveness when approached on the nest, making a characteristic clucking noise.
Broody hens should be removed to separate coops with no nest. Return to the main flock in 4-6 days. Keep a close watch on them once back in flock as they may return to broody behaviour. Repeat the isolation treatment if they do.
Eggs Contain the Following Vitamins and Minerals:
Protein, Calcium Phosphorus, Iron, Iodine, Vitamin A, Vitamin B Vitamin B1, B2, Vitamin 12, Vitamin D.
The Egg is Made up of Five Main Sections:
Click on Egg diagram to enlarge image
The Shell: This is almost pure calcium carbonate and is porous (around 8,000 holes), to allow the passage of gases and water vapour.
The Shell Membrane: This membrane acts as a barrier against bacteria.
The Albumen: This is the egg white. It includes two thick strands which hold the yolk in the centre of the egg (the Chalazae).
The Yolk: This supplies the food for the developing chick.
The Germinal Disc: This is a very small spot on the yolk’s surface from which the fertilised egg develops into a chick.
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Note the position of the air pocket — (refer to egg freshness) |
REPLACING THE FLOCK
It has been said that layers in their second year produce only 75% of the eggs laid in their first year. I personally find that even old hens will produce an economic return of eggs provided they are well cared for. One can become very fond of our old chookies even if it means they are only good for the slow cooker or dog food when their time comes to meet their maker.
CHICKEN LIFECYCLE
Birth (Chick) — 6 Weeks (Pullet) — 18-20 Weeks (Layer) — Death
NUTRITION
Poor health prevention is always better than cure — give fresh water and greens daily (any of your vegetables, dandelion, puha, watercress, chickweed, groundsel, overgrown zucchinis, overripe pumpkin). Ensure grit is always available, preferably the sea sand and shells for the mineral content.
If feeding wheat, corn etc make sure the mice don't have a chance to urinate on it in storage.
| Suggestions for Chicks |
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Boiled mashed fine potatoes, with fine cracked corn. (Fattening: mix with chaff or bran — 1 pt, roughage, 4 pts potatoes). |
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Powdered whole grain barley, some slippery elm, egg custard with chopped onion, dandelion & parsley with a little honey. |
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The grass in the coup should be kept short. |
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Tonic — liquorice powdered mixed with whole wheat bread and milk, little honey. Powdered seaweed after the 10th day. |
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Raw apple grated for diarrhoea. |
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Other tonic food — hemp, millet, sunflower seeds, fenugreek seeds, fennel, flaked nuts, pepper, ginger and paprika. |
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Raisins, all greens as below, a little fishmeal, sunflower seeds, few drops of quality cod-liver oil. |
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Fowls who eat their own feathers cease to do so when given salt. |
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| Suggestions for Adults |
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Include in adult feed scalded clover hay. |
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Onions chopped finely. |
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Pinch of powdered seaweed. |
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Sprouts, cabbages, watercress, all mints, parsley, clover, chickweed, cleavers, comfrey, all plantains, fat hen, groundsel, poppy, shepherds purse, thistle heads, dandelion, fennel, dill, wormwood. Peas & beans are rich sources of proteins. |
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Rue chopped finely into mash. |
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Chickens fatten best when given a full feed just before roosting & first thing in morning. |
Pasture-fed Chookies Cost Less, Produce More
Although we may have to feed our chookies grain as well as grass, there are very good reasons for giving them those nourishing greens.
Pastureland, including all of the resident insects that dwell within, greatly increase your chooks feed efficiency. It has been said that chookies cannot survive on grass and insects alone but tell that to the roadside bantam rooster and his happy hens!
Scientifically we can say that indoor chookies consume about 2 kilos of grain for every 500 grams they gain in weight. The chooky allowed to roam free (and I don’t mean just 2 metres from their nest box) eat about 1 kilo of grain for every 500 grams of weight gain. Anyone who is a connoisseur of healthy eggs can verify that free-range grass and insect eating hens produce the best eggs — their golden yellow yolk positively glow with health and vitality.
Their meat is also considerably higher in omega 3 fatty acids, vitamin E and beta-carotene; and in our present toxic food climate, we need all the omega 3’s we can get.
All chookies should receive a little organic apple cider vinegar in their water daily. Chickens grow faster, feather out quicker, are hardier and larger. They develop more meat on their frame and the meat is tenderer when cooked. If a chicken bone is broken open when plucking, the bone marrow shows increased redness, indicating improved red blood cell formation.
HEALTH PROBLEMS
Below is a quick ready reference to problem solving. Remember, we can supply any of these remedies or combinations. See Product List.
(Click on diagrams to enlarge image)
*Note: HP = homeopathic
Asthma
Breathing easily heard, especially after exertion of flying.
HP: Spongia, Ipecac, Bryonia (in old age).
Herb: A little plantain seed helps recovery.
If chookies have a foul breath (excuse the descriptive word), a nasal discharge, sore eyes and inflamed throat and mouth try Spongia. This remedy is the sovereign remedy for croup in children, the same for fowls.
Bumble Foot
Foot becomes swollen and inflamed. Pus may be formed which is cheesy and in time grows hard. Possibly caused by injuries and bruises while jumping to high roosts. Clean injured part, remove any foreign objects and apply the Calendula herb in an aqueous cream base. Bind the foot and keep birds on a clean straw surface.
HP: Silica 6c and Arnica 6c (separately) 2 x daily for 3-5 days.
Coryza, Cold, Catarrh
The causative organism is a bacteria. Serous and or mucoid nasal discharges, oedema of the face with conjunctivitis, swollen wattles in males, laboured breathing with rales and lowered feed & water consumption. Severe drop in egg production.
HP: Ars alb 30 — 2-3 times daily.
Euphrasia 30 — if nasal discharge is semi solid and there is discharge from the eyes.
Aconitum 30 — if cause of disease is exposure to cold air.
Hepar sulph — if above remedies are ineffective.
Gels 30 — if cause of disease is humid air.
Chronic Respiratory Disease
Usually occurs in birds from 4-8 weeks of age. Feed consumption is lowered rales, cough & nasal discharges. Lameness and neck paralysis common symptoms.
HP: Combine Thuja 200
Nat sulph 200
Carbo veg 30 & Bryonia 30
Treat for at least 3 days.
Coccidiosis
A protozoal disease that causes heavy losses. Generally observed in young growing birds. Lowers vitality, retards development, delays egg laying.
In chicks, bloody diarrhoea is first prominent sign. Affected chicks huddle together in one place. Look sleepy, severely anaemic. Mortality within 2-3 days. Caecum is filled with blood-tinged exudates.
HP: Merc sol 30 — proved successful as a preventative and therapeutic, mortality is controlled within a short period. Continue at 4 x daily until birds are symptomless.
May be useful to add the nosode Coccidiosis as a preventative.
Herb: Powdered ginger, garlic, warmed honey, bran, molasses, plenty of greens, buttermilk (a worm expellant as well).
Crop Bound
Indigestion by coccidiosis, worms, vegetable matter. Area of the crop hard, protruding, often staggering gait.
Herb: Tsp of Linseed Oil.
Constipation
HP: Nux vom 30 especially if due to ingestion of bad food; or Opium 30 if they have constipation without urging.
Herb: Include greens in the diet.
Diarrhoea & Dysentery
Diarrhoea = stools copious, watery.
Dysentery = stools mixed with blood & mucous.
Causes — faulty food, unhygienic water / conditions, over feeding, worms, deficiency of lime or gravel. necessary for digestion.
HP: Ars alb 30 — if due to spoiled food.
Carbo veg 30 — if discharge is white & offensive.
Ipecacuanha 30 — the chief remedy.
Merc cor 30 — mucous & blood in stool.
Egg Binding
Often caused through glandular deficiencies. Provide plenty of seaweed, cleavers chopped up in bran.
HP: Caulophyllum, Sepia.
Apply olive oil into vent. Refer the Canary Case Study
Egg Promotion & Growth
Proteins (amino acids), minerals and vitamins play an important role in the production of eggs in layers, growth in broilers and young chickens.
There is a formula that has proved efficient and profitable. One of the ingredients is Alfalfa which contains calcium, phosphorus, copper, magnesium, iron, cobalt, zinc & selenium plus Vitamins B1, B2 niacin, folic acid, tocopherol and estrogens in sufficient quantities to meet the needs of cattle and birds. Arginine, histidine, isoleucine, valin, cystine and other amino acids make Alfalfa a natural tonic.
The formula trains the vital force of the body to increase the vitality against the disease by correcting the systems of the body to work more efficiently.
It has proved to provide a significant weight gain in broilers after administration. Also it was noticed that growth of weak birds was satisfactory after a period of one month. The formula also extending period of high egg production, improvising normal egg production throughout the laying cycle, increasing resistance power against diseases and feed efficiency. It also reduces the cull rate. For Layers it increases egg production during stressed conditions & maintains normal egg production throughout the laying cycle and for Broilers & Cockerels it optimises growth and feed efficiency.
Enlarged Crop
This condition arises from eating too much food, or the eaten food is prevented from passing out of the crop. The passage from crop to gizzard may be clogged with long dry grasses. Birds ruffles their feathers, throw their head out; the croup feels packed and ready to burst.
HP: Nux vom 30 or Ars alb 30.
Herb: Tsp of olive oil twice daily.
Ensure plenty of grit in pens.
Eye Diseases
Main symptoms excessive lacrimation, also ulcerated eyeballs where discharge is offensive, liquidy, sometime pus-like material oozes from eyes.
HP: Euphrasia 30 — pus formation, disease in advanced stage.
Sulph 30 — alternate with Euphrasia.
Apis mel — when eyes are inflamed, sore, swollen.
Gapes
Chiefly affects young fowls before their feathers have grown. More or less constant ‘gaping’ of the mouth, or, more properly, gasping for breath due to presence of small red worm in windpipe.
HP: Dulcamara, Drosera in alternation with sulphur.
For the worms Cina, Santonine.
Indigestion
A symptom due to disturbed digestion leading to unhealthy evacuations of pasty or wholly undigested food with diminished or total loss of appetite. Generally cause is overeating.
HP: Nux vom 30 2-3 x daily.
China & Carbo veg 30 — when indigestion is due to worm infestation & gases are formed.
Internal Parasites
A few drops of the homoeopathic Cina 30c in the water helps keep the worms at bay, although I prefer a herbal / homoeopathic mix which I prepare. (See Product List). Remember to give this just before the full moon.
Itch
Examine bird for external parasites like lice etc. Bird constantly scratches and bites at herself, feathers become droopy and fall out. On examination, the body is covered with small pimples that are mainly on the back and side.
HP: Sulphur 30 for 3 days followed by Staphisagria 30 until complete cure.
Lice
These can kill ducks suddenly, and young chickens may appear sleepy, refuse to eat, waste away or lose their head feathers. Whenever you notice a sick chookie dusting itself, look for lice!
Search around head, neck & throat regions. Refusal to eat, bowel disease in summer, puny looking, sudden deaths, gradual wasting, constant crying, loss of feathers of head. The large body lice are always on the adults.
Creosote housing, fumigate with cayenne pepper, Derris dust with powdered quassia chips.
HP: with excessive thirst = Nat Mur, Sabadilla.
Herb: Oil of fennel dropped onto head.
• Rub roosts with mixt of kerosene and lard.
• Fumigate house with Sulphur or Lime sulphur spray.
• Sprinkle floor with solution of carbolic acid.
• Camphorated water.
• Green twigs of alder, handfuls of wild thyme.
• Pine — fresh green needles on housing floor.
• Fleabane or eucalyptus leaves in nesting material.
Mareks Disease
A dangerous viral disease affecting all age groups of birds. Hence, day old chicks are vaccinated and protected from this disease.
Symptoms: Birds get paralytic, have difficult respiration, sometimes there is diarrhoea and weight loss. Due to paralysis they cannot eat or drink. Deaths are due to starvation or thirst. There are many different strategies in the disease, hence medicines are to be changed according to the stage of disease.
Suggestions according to symptomatology:
HP: Ant tart difficult respiration.
Carbo veg complementary to the above.
Tuberculinum 200 + China 30.
Gelsemium 30 and Causticum 30.
Moulting
Shedding of feathers is a normal process and not a disease. Generally laying stops before moulting starts. If process is unduly slow then treatment may be considered; try homeopathic Calc Carb.
Excessive moulting due to lack of protein or acute vitamin deficiency. Supply animal protein of slugs & snails.
HP: Calc Sulph 30c 2 x daily or Nat mur 30c if there is raw corroding fluid among the feathers.
Herb: aromatic herbs — dill, anise, and fennel, good for plumage growth.
Externally a brew of the foliage of wild daffodils, or rosemary with a little vinegar.
Give oily foods e.g. sunflower seeds, linseed meals at time of moulting.
Prolapse of Cloaca
A management disease. Often retention of soft-shelled egg, inability to stand, constant egg-laying.
HP: Kali phos 30 on alternate days.
Herb: Soak pad in witch hazel and bathe. Fast for one day then feed very light diet of greens, bran mash, molasses, buttermilk.
Prolapse of Uterus
Commonly encountered in certain strains of white leghorn breed. Birds usually die of excessive bleeding.
HP: A combination of three remedies given in drinking water of isolated bird for 3-4 weeks.
Proud Flesh
Apply to affected area — castor oil, vinegar & thick honey.
Red Mites
Includes the parasitical mite that causes scaling on the legs and combs can be successfully treated with applying paraffin oil to the affected part. I use an old soft drink bottle cut in half and fill it with paraffin; dip the chooky legs into this every week for 3 weeks. The oil will last for ages so don’t throw it away.
Add a few drops of homoeopathic sulphur 6c to the drinking water daily until the condition has cleared.
Salmonellosis
Highly contagious, fatal disease in young chickens. Occurs in adult birds but confined to the ovaries. The birds seldom show any symptoms of the disease.
Reduces egg productions, causes some mortality. Disease signs appear with 2-3 days of chickens hatching; continues until 3-4 weeks of age. Maximum losses are during first 2 weeks.
Affected chicks are drowsy and try to remain in groups, stand with drooping wings. Unsteady gait. Do not eat. Droppings may be white & sticky or brownish which clings to vent so much that it blocks vent and chicks soon die. Those chicks that survive appear weak, unthrifty, dull with tendency to develop large abdomen.
Post mortem reveals abscesses in lungs, gizzards, liver, heart muscles. A stringy material may cover the heart.
HP: A combination including Ars alb 30, plus the Salmonella nosode 30 may be used for prevention and cure purposes.
Scaly Leg
Caused by a minute parasite. Scrub legs with soapy water with a little ammonia. Add strong solution of garlic plus pinch of cayenne pepper & vinegar equal parts. May use paraffin oil as scrub. Consider Sassafras & Neem Oil.
HP: Sulphur
Tumours
May be benign or malignant.
HP: Hep Sulph 30 if tumours appear after injury.
Thuja 30 if the growth is cauliflower like, or a seedy warty growth — 1 x week for 6 weeks.
Warts
If little warty growths appear around the neck give Thuja 30C, this remedy should always be considered for fungus-like growths too.
Worms
Cause stunted growth, weakness, emaciation, lowered egg production in laying birds and death in chickens of all ages.
| Chief sources of worm infestation are: |
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Worm eggs |
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Contaminated litter & soil, food and water |
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Contact with droppings of infected birds, (Do NOT put the water bowl directly under a tree unless a high cover is provided). |
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Consumption with intermediate hosts such as flies, beetles, snails etc. |
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Careless use of contaminated equipment, carrying infection via feet of caretakers. |
HP: Worm Control — ensure worming program is carried out just before full moon.
Herb: Garlic, grated carrot, onion, elder & bramble leaves, wormwood.
Can McDonalds certify their poultry GE Free?
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